Baby Boobies

Not baby booties -- baby boobies!


This post outlines the pattern for the toddler version of "Duck," published recently in Knitty.

I chose to model these socks after the blue-footed booby, since my husband loves the Galapagos and is a huge fan of this bird. You may of course choose your own inspiration when choosing your color. When my daughter outgrows these, maybe I'll make her some pink flamingo feet.


I also wanted to mention, just in case you are concerned about one possible disadvantage of hand-knitted socks for new walkers...

Fortunately for me, knitters are some of the cleverest and most creative people I know, and the fine folks at the Fiber Gallery on Phinney Ridge suggested I use fabric paint to add a little traction to the bottom. Thank you Fiber Gallery!

Some of you may notice that this sock does not correspond exactly to the pattern below. Specifically, I decided to try moving the decreases to the outer edges, so I would have vertical rows along the bottom. But in retrospect, I like it better with the decreases down the middle.

As always, I encourage you to thumb your nose at my instructions and play around with your own ideas.

The Gist

The booby sock pattern is very similar to the duck sock pattern. Stitch count and directions are the same, with the following exceptions:

• Use a slightly thicker yarn, and larger needles.
• Do not purl the center stitch on the bottom of the sock -- knit all the way across.
• End the center toe at the tip, where you cast on, rather than wrapping around and working to the back of the heel.
• Since you are not working the center toe along the bottom, you will end up with 6 live I-cord sts, rather than 9, to be slipped onto a 3rd needle and then onto the same holder as the heel sts.

Other than that, it's the same.

The Details

I recommend that you reference the Knitty article Duck while making these socks, as it contains photos and illustrations of the process. The booby socks are so similar in structure to the duck socks, once you understand the gist of how they are different, you probably won't even need the instructions below. Differences between this pattern and Duck are indicated by bold red type.

MATERIALS
Yarn
Baby Ull by Dale of Norway [100% superwash wool; 175m per 50g skein]; color: #6714 Blue; 1 skein

Needles
Two US #3/3.25mm circular needles, 24 inches or longer, or one needle of sufficient length for Magic Loop. (Note: this pattern was developed for circulars, but if you are devoted to your dpn's, may I suggest you check out this video tutorial, kindly posted by Mojen.)
One set US #3/3.25mm double-point needles (you’ll need only two or three of them)

Notions
Crochet hook, close in size to US #3/3.25mm
Small stitch holders
Tapestry needle
Elastic thread (optional, but a good thing if your toddler likes to pull her socks off)

GAUGE
28 sts/40 rows = 4" in stockinette st

Gauge makes a noticeable difference in size!

PATTERN NOTES
Please see Knitty.com for references to standard abbreviations.
This pattern also uses:

• Judy’s Magic Cast On
• Turkish Cast On
• Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off

Non-standard abbreviations (these techniques are known by a couple of different names)

• RLI (Right Lifted Increase): Use the right needle to pick up the stitch below the next stitch on the left needle. Place it on the left needle, then knit into it. 1 stitch has been increased.
• LLI (Left Lifted Increase): Use the left needle to pick up the stitch 2 rows below the last stitch on the right needle. Knit into this stitch. 1 stitch has been increased.
• S2KP: Slip next 2 sts together, knitwise, as if to work a k2tog. Knit next st, then pass both slipped sts together over st just knit. This forms a centered double decrease.

DIRECTIONS
Note that a semicolon ";" indicates the halfway mark, where you change to your second circular needle. Differences between this pattern and the original are indicated by bold red type.

Shape Center Point
Using Judy's Magic Cast On, CO 4 sts (2 sts on each needle).
Round 1: [K1, yo, k1] on each needle. 6 sts.
Round 2: CO 2 sts (1 st on each needle), k2 (first st to be knit is new CO st), p1, k1; CO 2 sts (1 st on each needle), k5. 10 sts.
Round 3: CO 2 sts (1 st on each needle), k3, p1, k2; CO 2 sts (1 st on each needle), k7. 14 sts.

Shape Webbing
Round 4: CO 4 sts (2 sts on each needle), k5, p1, k3; CO 4 sts (2 sts on each needle), k11. 22 sts. Round 5: CO 8 sts (4 sts on each needle), k9, p1, k5; CO 8 sts (4 sts on each needle), k19. 38 sts. Round 6: CO 12 sts (6 sts on each needle, k15, p1, k9; CO 12 sts (6 sts on each needle, k31. 62 sts.
Round 7: K15, p1, k15; k31.

Begin Side Toes
Round 8: YO, k15, p1, k15; YO, k31. 64 sts.
Rounds 9-11: [P1, k15] twice; p1, k31.

Shape Foot
Round 12: P1, k13, k2tog, p1, ssk, k13; P1, k13, k2tog, k1, ssk, k13. 60 sts.
Rounds 13-15: [P1, k14] twice; p1, k29.
Round 16: P1, k12, k2tog, p1, ssk, k12; P1, k12, k2tog, k1, ssk, k12. 56 sts.
Rounds 17-19: [P1, k13] twice; p1, k27.
Round 20: P1, k11, k2tog, p1, ssk, k11; P1, k11, k2tog, k1, ssk, k11. 52 sts.
Rounds 21-23: [P1, k12] twice; p1, k25.
Round 24: P1, k10, k2tog, p1, ssk, k10; P1, k10, k2tog, k1, ssk, k10;. 48 sts.
Rounds 25-27: [P1, k11] twice; p1, k23.
Round 28: P1, k9, k2tog, p1, ssk, k9; P1, k9, k2tog, k1, ssk, k9. 44 sts.
Rounds 29-30: [P1, k10] twice; p1, k21.

Gusset
Round 1: P1, k8, LLI, k2, p1, k2, RLI, k8; p1, k8, k2tog, k1, ssk, k8. 44 sts: 24 sts on first needle, 20 sts on second needle.
Rounds 2-3: [P1, k11] twice; p1, k19.
Round 4: P1, k8, LLI, k3, p1, k3, RLI, k8; p1, k7, k2tog, k1, ssk, k7. 44 sts: 26 sts on first needle, 18 sts on second needle.
Round 5-6: [P1, k12] twice; p1, k17.
Round 7: P1, k8, LLI, k4, p1, k4, RLI, k8; p1, k6, k2tog, k1, ssk, k6. 44 sts: 28 sts on first needle, 16 sts on second needle.
Rounds 8-9: [P1, k13] twice; p1, k15.
Round 10: P1, k8, LLI, k11, RLI, k8; p1, k5, k2tog, k1, ssk, k5. 44 sts: 30 sts on first needle, 14 sts on second needle. Note that center st on first needle is knit, instead of purled.

Heel
Work first 9 sts of first needle in pattern; place next 13 sts on st holder for instep. Turn work so that WS is facing. Heel flap will now be worked back and forth in rows over remaining 31 sts. When working first row, work all sts onto one needle.
Row 1 [WS]: P8, k1, p13, k1, p8.
Row 2 [RS]: K8, p1, k4, k2tog, k1, ssk, k4, p1, k8. 29 sts.
Row 3 [WS]: P8, k1, p11, k1, p8.
Row 4 [RS]: K8, p1, k3, k2tog, k1, ssk, k3, p1, k8. 27 sts.
Row 5 [WS]: P8, k1, p9, k1, p8.
Row 6 [RS]: K8, p1, k2, k2tog, k1, ssk, k2, p1, k8. 25 sts.
Row 7 [WS]: P8, k1, p7, k1, p8.
Row 8 [RS]: K8, p1, k1, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1, p1, k8. 23 sts.
Row 9 [WS]: P8, k1, p5, k1, p8.
Row 10 [RS]: K8, p1, k2tog, k1, ssk, p1, k8. 21 sts.
Row 11 [WS]: P8, k1, p3, k1, p8.
Row 12 [RS]: K8, p1, S2KP, p1, k8. 19 sts.
Row 13 [WS]: P8, k1, p1, k1, p8.
Break yarn.

Now you will rearrange the sts so that they fit together like a zipper. The diagrams below show how to do this in general; you can apply these principles to your stitch total (19).

With RS facing, divide remaining sts between 2 needles, placing first 9 sts (represented by medium blue) on right needle and last 10 sts (light blue) on left needle.


Follow the steps below to slip sts to a holder or third needle, alternating 1 stitch from each needle as you go.

Fold fabric in half so that the left needle is in front of the right needle.

Slip 1 stitch purlwise from left/front needle to third needle.


Slip 1 stitch purlwise from right/back needle to third needle.


Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have transferred all sts to your third needle.


In the case of your sock, since you are working this section over an odd number of sts (this example shows an even number of sts), your result would begin and end with the sts from your left/front needle.

Leave these sts on their holder until you have finished the toes. At that point, you'll bind these sts together with applied I-cord.

Toes
Toes are worked in applied I-cord. Cords will be worked along columns of purl sts which run along top and sides of foot.

Please see Duck in knitty.com for detailed instructions on working the toes. This blog post focuses only on finishing the toes.

Work center toe first. Start and work over top of foot as described in Duck, then when you come to the tip of the webbing, work one more row without picking up any sts from the foot. Bind off and weave in ends. The idea here is, you want it to stick out just a little bit.

Work either of the side toes next, exactly as described in Duck. When you come to the stopping point of your first side toe, place the 3 live sts on holder and break yarn.

When you come to the stopping point on your next side toe, do not break the yarn -- this is now your working yarn.

As you did with the heel sts, place the 3 sts from each toe onto 2 separate needles, and then slip each stitch onto a third needle, alternating side to side like a zipper. You can start from either toe.

After you have slipped 3 sts onto your third needle, grab the working yarn (it doesn't matter if it's from the right toe or left toe), bring it between the two needles and then behind the third needle. Then slip the last 3 sts to the third needle. (I’m working on a diagram for this.) Your working yarn should emerge from the back, between the 3rd and 4th sts.

Slip these 6 sts purlwise onto the same holder/dpn that has been holding your heel sts. You should now have a total of 25 sts on the holder.

Close Back of Heel
Heel will be closed by working applied I-cord, continuing from the side toes.

Next Row: K2, k2tog tbl. Sl sts purlwise back to left needle.
Repeat this row until all sts have been worked. 3 sts remain.

Cuff
Continuing from I-cord sts just worked, pick up and k 9 sts along upper edge of opening, k held sts of instep, pick up and k 9 sts along upper edge of opening. 34 sts.

Next Round: *K3, p2, [k2, p2] three times; repeat from * once.
Repeat this round 15 times more, or until cuff is desired length.
K 2 rounds. BO all sts using Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. If desired, sew elastic thread through inside of cuff.

Quack!

Knitty is up! :)

Now I finally get to post a photo of the duck socks that I made for my daughter about a year ago:

Below is the toddler version I developed after my little one started walking. These were inspired by the blue-footed booby.


Photo courtesty of Chris Abraham.

The booby socks use the same pattern as the Duck Socks except they have a flat sole.

Please stay tuned for a followup blog post with more detail, including the booby sock pattern. I'll be back soon!

ADDENDA

1. Want an adult version? I'm working on it! Stay tuned to the blog and I'll post both additional sizes when they're ready.

2. DPN-users, check out this video, posted by Mojen on Ravelry: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mojen/4457054527/. Thank you Mojen!

Knitting With Adobe Illustrator

Over the past month I have participated in a whirlwind of knitting and other creative activity, but I realize you certainly wouldn't know it from my lack of blog entries. I have been thinking about this particular post for quite some time, since quite a few of you have asked me about this topic.

TechKnitter is my inspiration to learn how to make knitting illustrations. Any of you who read her blog will certainly understand. Since knitting illustration is its own unique beast, and there are not a lot of resources out there that specifically address how to learn this skill, I had to struggle through a lot of trial and error to get started (and as I continue learning, the trial & error continues). I'd like to share with you the key insights I've learned so far, in hopes that it will help get you drawing! (Note: this is my own method; I don't know what TechKnitter does.)

This tutorial assumes you have basic Illustrator skills. You should know how to use the pen, how to manage layers, colors, strokes & fills. You should also know how to use the Grid and the Smart Guides. If your Illustrator skills are more raw than this, I highly recommend the Classroom in a Book series, published by Adobe, to get you started.


Before you start: Understand the topology of your fabric.
Note which parts of the paths come to the front and go to the back, and note that this is different for knit stitches and purl stitches.

You may notice that my drawing doesn't exactly look realistic. Compare with a photo I found on the Classic Elite Yarns website:


Even though my illustrations don't necessarily reflect what you'd see in real life, I find that it's easier to explain knitting concepts when I open up the fabric and show the path of the yarn. This is just my own style -- your mileage may vary. :)


For our tutorial, let's start with a single knit stitch.

Step 1: Draw a stitch.

NOTE: To see a larger image, just click on it!

Using the pen tool, draw a single stitch. From the image above, you can see where I put the anchor points, and where I pulled the handles. Set a thick stroke width (in this case 10 pt) and no fill.


Step 2: Copy and paste the stitch.


Choose the Selection tool, select the black path, then copy and paste [ctrl-C]+ [ctrl-V] (or select these commands from the Edit menu). Position the new path directly above the first one. Change it to a different color, one that is clearly distinctive from the color of the first.

Tip: Take note of what's happening in the Layers palette. As you add objects, they appear here.



Step 3: Interlock the stitches.


In order to represent a knit stitch, the black path will have to be in front of the red path in some places, and the red path will have to be in front of the black path in other places. Illustrator doesn't let you bring parts of a continuous path to the front and send other parts to the back. Try it and you'll see what I mean.

So, you're going to do this by copying specific segments of the black path, and superimpose them on top of the red.


3.1 Add anchor points.


Choose the Add Anchor Point tool from the tool palette (hold down the Pen tool to get the flyout menu) and add four new anchor points (A, B, C, and D) in the approximate positions labeled above.


3.2 Select the "leg" segments of the black path.


Choose the Direct Selection tool and click on the black path between anchors A and B. Hold down the [shift] key and click on the black path between anchors C and D. (Note that the path segments will not turn yellow -- this is for illustration purposes only)


3.3 Copy these segments and paste them directly on top.


Press [ctrl-C] to copy the selected path segments, then [ctrl-F] to paste directly on top of the black path.

NOTE: It doesn't matter if you Paste In Front [ctrl-F] or Paste In Back [ctrl-B]. The important thing here is to NOT use Paste [ctrl-V], because if you do, your new segments will not be in the precise X-Y location that matches the black path, and it will be difficult to reposition them manually.


3.4 Group the new path segments.


Press [ctrl-G] to group (or select this command from the right-click or Object menu).

Although this step is optional here, it's a good habit to get into. Right after you paste them, all your new segments will be selected, so it's the perfect time to group them. Once you start making fabric with more stitches and rows, grouping your segments becomes crucial.

Note that the new group is now visible in the Layers palette. All of the objects that make up this group (in this case just 2 path segments) are listed under that group.



3.5 Bring the new segment group in front of the red path.


You can do this several ways: select the segment group and open the the R-click or Object menu (then Arrange --> Bring to Front), or simply click on the object in the Layers palette and drag it up above the red path.


Take a moment to admire your work. You've just made your first interlocked stitches! Now, to make the texture of the fabric really pop, it's good to outline these paths you've drawn. Let's outline these paths in bright yellow.


Step 4: Outline your paths.


Note that before you start making your outlines, your Layers palette should contain three objects: a group, a red path, and a black path. In this step, you will create a copy of each object directly behind it, then change the stroke width and color of the duplicated object. Here's how:


4.1 Duplicate the black path.


Select the black path, Copy it [ctrl-C] and Paste in Back [ctrl-B]. In the drawing space, it will look like nothing has happened, but in the layers palette you'll now see two black paths. The one at the very bottom of the list is the one you just created.


4.2 Change color and stroke of the duplicate path.


Leaving the new path selected, increase its stroke thickness (I chose 14 point) and change the color to yellow. Take note of how the Layers palette automatically updates as you make changes to your objects.


4.2 Outline the red path.


Select the red path, then repeat steps 4.1 and 4.2.


4.3 Outline the black path segments.


Select the segment group, then repeat steps 4.1 and 4.2.

Now, I know what you're thinking here: "yuck, I can see the edges of my path segments!" To hide these lines, select the black path segments (not the yellow ones) and open the Stroke palette...


By default, your strokes end in butt caps. Make sure only the black path segments are selected, then click on Round Cap.


... and, voila!



I'm sure this is enough information for now. Once you master this much, you'll be ready to draw fabric with more stitches and more rows. Stay tuned, that tutorial will come soon!