There are lots of different ways to do short rows. I have unvented my own favorite way, and I wouldn't be at all surprised if I'm not the only one. But because I haven't found this particular method documented online anywhere, here is a photo tutorial. This tutorial shows how I work over a single short row on the RS and the WS of the fabric. Mitered short row heels and toes are out of scope for this post.
First, here is one short summary of some classic methods. My method is closest to the "catch" method illustrated here. Run a Google search and you will find many more articles.
Also, the dear departed incomparable Cat Bordhi came up with her own method of working short rows as part of her Sweet Tomato Heels shaping. This is fairly new and so not included in most short row summaries you'll find online. My method is also similar to Cat's. Watch her STH video and right after 6 minutes is when she begins to show the details of how she closes her short row gaps.
Alright. So here's how I do it.
In the sample below, the short rows are worked in red, and the last full row just below them is in yellow. This should hopefully help you to see how the sts are related to each other. Note how the last red stitch is worked only once; that's because when you turn the work to the WS, you slip the first stitch.
Here's how the other side looks from the WS.
I'm using a third color (blue) to distinguish the row where the gap between the last red stitch and the first yellow stitch is closed. On this row, knit all the way up to the last red stitch -- the one to the immediate R of the gap.
Insert the tip of the L needle into the back of the first yellow stitch on the R needle, 2 sts below the one you just knitted. As you do this, you should feel the stitch to the L tighten up a little. That's because they are right next to each other on the same row.
Work the first two sts on the L needle together with a k2tog. (Note: these 2 sts are in opposing orientations -- the first leads from the back, and the second leads from the front. This is on purpose. Doing a k2tog with the sts in this configuration will ensure that the second stitch will be in front, and first one will twist behind it, which helps to conceal the gap.)
The gap is now closed, and completely invisible.
Now on to the other side. Working a short row conceal from the WS is a pain. I personally prefer to knit left to right with the RS facing me rather than purl on the WS, but since this is not how most knitters work, here are the instructions for doing my short row method from the WS.
Just as you did when working on the RS, work (in this case purl) up to the last short row (red) stitch.
Insert the L needle tip under and through the (yellow) stitch 2 below the one you just worked. You'll feel the stitch to its left tighten up a little.
If you don't particularly care about having an invisible gap closure that perfectly matches the one on the other side, you can simply do a p2tog here and it will look pretty good. But if you want it to match, and to be invisible, you'd need to do slip-slip-purl decrease here. (Note: Remember how when you worked the k2tog, the sts you worked together were in opposing orientations? The same will be true here, except it will be in reverse: your first p stitch will lead with the front leg the next will lead with the back leg.)
It's a pain, I know. Remember you can just do a p2tog here if you want. The next 4 steps show you how I do this modified ssp.
1. Slip the first st on the L needle to the R needle purlwise, without changing the orientation.
2. Slip the next st on the L needle knitwise, changing the orientation.
Now you need to work these 2 sts together in a way such that the loop will be emerging through the loop on the left. You *could* slip them back to the L needle and work them as TECHknitter or Interweave tells you. But I don't like doing it that way. Here's how I do it.
3. Make sure your working yarn (blue) is in front. Insert your L needle through the first 2 sts on the R needle, L needle in front.
4. Wrap the working yarn around the L needle and, using the L needle tip, pull it through both sts.
Congratulations, you just made an ssp.
Now slip this stitch to the R needle and purl to the end of the row. Depending on how you wrapped the working (blue) yarn, you may need to shift the orientation of the ssp stitch as you slip it. Read your knitting and check to be sure it leads with the front leg, like all the other sts.
Here's what that ssp looks like from the RS. Just like the conceal on the opposite side, the gap here is invisible, and the sides match.
At some point I will probably add to this post with how to work the second side from RS working left to right, since that's probably just as quirky and unconventional as my instructions for working a modified ssp from the WS. But at least then you will have your choice of multiple quirky and unconventional methods, rather than just one. ;)
