Saturday, November 28, 2009
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Fundamentally, Judy's Magic Rib breaks down into just four components:
- Cast on in knit.
- Transition from knit to purl.
- Cast on in purl.
- Transition from purl to knit.
- Bring both strands of yarn through the middle between the two needles, to the other side.
- Rotate the yarns one half-twist.
I have to warn you: the kinetics are tricky. You'll be moving two strands of yarn towards you vs. away from you AND rotating in one direction vs. another. It took me *many* attempts to understand how this works. I dearly hope that my efforts to make this technique understandable to you have not been in vain!
The example below is for k2p2 rib.
1. Cast on 2 sts in JMCO-knit.
Start on the bottom needle, end on the top needle. For a refresher on how to do this, click here.
2. Transition from knit to purl.
1. Bring both strands of yarn between the two needles, from back to front. Be careful to not let that last stitch slip off! (It's easier if you first bring the yarns together with your thumb & forefinger, then bring them through the middle.)
2. Rotate the yarns around each other to un-cross them. This is a bit of a pain, because you have to reposition the yarn in your left hand, and switch which finger holds which end of the yarn.
Before I show you how, first I'm going to point out to you that when you're doing JMCO-knit, you hold the tail (red) with your forefinger and the working yarn (black) with your thumb. Whereas when you're doing JMCO-purl, it's the opposite: the working yarn goes on your forefinger, and the tail goes on your thumb. In both cases, the working yarn gets wrapped around the top needle, and the tail gets wrapped around the bottom needle. In theory, if our wrists could rotate another 180 degrees in either direction, it wouldn't matter which finger held which strand, but we humans have our limitations.
So, this is why, when you transition from knit to purl and purl to knit, you have to switch yarn positions.
Hope that makes sense. :)
Here's how I rotate the yarns from JMCO-knit to JMCO-purl...
Note that I used to drop both ends of the yarn, rotate them, and pick them up again. Doing that for each and every transition got old really fast. I eventually figured out this method, which I like a lot better.
(a) With your thumb, let go of the working yarn. Bring your thumb under and behind the working yarn, then up and and in front of the tail.
(b) Now that your thumb is holding the tail, release your forefinger. With your thumb, swing the tail down, behind the working yarn.
(c) Now grab the working yarn with your forefinger, and swing it out.
Transition done! Now you're ready to continue casting on in purl.
3. Cast on 2 purl stitches. Remember how to do this? :) Refresher is here.
Throw the working end over the top needle with your forefinger.
2. Rotate the strands of yarn around each other, so that the tail crosses behind the working end. Note that this time you are rotating them in the opposite direction as you did for Step 2.
Here's how I rotate the yarns from JMCO-purl to JMCO-knit:
(b) Now that your forefinger has the tail, release your thumb. With your forefinger, swing the tail up and behind the working yarn.
Now you're ready to cast on more knit stitches. Remember how do to this? :) Refresher is here.
Bring the working yarn behind the bottom needle and in front of the top needle...
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
How I do Judy's Magic Cast On is a little different. I start on the bottom needle. (I do this with the purl version too, as you may have noticed already).
This is just personal preference. Cat Bordhi, Wendy Johnson, and Chrissy Gardiner (and probably others) all teach it the same way, starting on the top, but aside from this my method is nearly the same as theirs. Note that their collective method differs a little from the original 2006 publication, with respect to stitch mount (see the *notable word on my JMCO-purl post, for more about that).
I prefer to start on the bottom for a couple of reasons:
- I personally find it easier to end on the top needle. I think it makes for an easier transition when you turn your work and continue knitting in the round. And if I end on the top, I want to start on the bottom, so I have an equal number of stitches on the needles.
- Judy’s Magic Rib (which I *will* eventually get around to posting… it’s taken a lot more time than I expected) transitions between knit and purl after a top-needle wrap.
Starting on the bottom means that the first step is different. The other thing about my method that is a little different from Cat/Wendy/Chrissy is that I rotate the yarn around the needles in big circles with my left arm, rather than rotate the needles around the yarn with my right wrist. Trust me, you end up with the same end result. I just find the bigger motion to be more ergonomically friendly.
Bottom-needle starting position: Wrap the yarn around the bottom needle like so. The working yarn (black) comes over the front of the needle, held securely with your thumb. Hold the tail (red) in back with your forefinger.
Step 1: Wrap the working yarn around the top needle.
This first step is a little tricky (sorry!) but you only have to do it once. You’re going to arc your left hand in a full circle around your needles, and catch the working yarn (black) with your top needle halfway around.
After you swing your hand up, your yarn is going to cross, like this. Note how the tail (red) now comes around the front of the needle from underneath, and crosses behind the working yarn (black).
b. Slip the top needle just above where the yarn crosses.
c. Now bring your hand back down behind both needles to starting hand position, in a circular motion away from you. Note that when you do this, the working yarn (black) will cross over the top needle, and the tail (red) will cross behind the working yarn.
There. You're done with the hard part -- you’ve just made the first stitch on your top needle. You now have one stitch on each needle.
From here out you can ignore the rest of my instructions and follow Cat/Wendy/Chrissy's (but, remember to end with the top needle). Or, keep reading if you want to see how I get the same end result with a different set of motions.
Step 2: Wrap the tail around the bottom needle.
With your forefinger, bring the tail under and in front of the bottom needle, and then slip it behind the top needle.
The result will look like this:
Step 3: Wrap the working yarn around the top needle.
a. With your thumb, bring the working yarn behind the bottom needle, then in front of the top needle. Swing your whole hand up as you do this.
The result will look like this:
b. Now swing your hand back down behind both needles, in a circular motion away from you, back to starting position.
The result will look like this:
At this point, keep repeating steps 2 and 3 until you have the desired number of stitches on your needles. Here’s what it will look like after you do this three more times:
You can see in the image above that the end result looks the same as stockinette stitch, and that the stitch mount on the top and bottom needles is reversed. This means that when you turn your needles 180 degrees to knit across your bottom needle (pink)...
...you can knit normally. You don't have to do anything special to secure the tail end, and you don't have to knit through any back loops. Just let go of the tail and knit across the red loops with the working yarn. Yay! :)